* Charitable contributions
* Owning a clean-fuel vehicle
* Disaster relief contributions
* Prescription medicinces
* Stop-smoking programs
* Travel and transportation expenses
* Alimony

The rule of thumb on whether to itemize is simple: can you deduct more in mortgage interest, charitable contributions, state taxes, than the standard deduction? — $10,000 for married couples filing jointly and $5,000 for a single filer. Itemizing does take a little preplanning and organization in saving receipts and other paperwork documenting your expenditures.

If you are scrambling to retrieve those important papers that may be scattered hither and yon, consider investing in a spreadsheet, such as Quicken or Microsoft Money. Even if you aren’t tackling your own taxes this year, you could slash your tax-preparation fee in half. Microsoft.com says Microsoft Money 2006 can eliminate the paper chase, allowing you to sort out important tax information from day-to-day expenses, make educated tax investments and minimize capital gains taxes. Microsoft.com also recommends doing a little research on the front end to find out what can be deductible. The website suggests checking out MSN Money to learn about contributing to funds like IRA’s, ESPs, and OTPs, which may be tax deductible.

Here are a few deductions that www.msnbc.msn.com recommends you remember:

* Charitable contributions. If your donations are $250 or less, you do not need to include receipts. Any amount over that, however needs to be documented. According to the website, generally you can’t contribute more than 50 percent of your adjusted gross income, but under the Katrina Emergency Tax Relief Act of 2005, you can waive that restrictions for donations between Aug. 28 and Dec. 31. In addition, the IRS says you can also use a higher standard mileage rate and exclude mileage reimbursements from income.
* Education expenses that can range from saving for your kid’s college to paying off your own student loans.
* Home-office expenses if you work at home.
* Medical expenses if they exceed more than 7.5 percent of your adjusted gross income
* Miscellaneous deductions. According to the IRS, these can include depreciation on computers or cell phones, job search expenses, hobby expenses, military uniforms, safe deposit box rent, gambling losses, trustee’s administrative fees for IRA.

With a little research and organization, you can end up saving a lot of money by itemizing deductions. So throw away that shoebox you’ve used to store receipts. Its never too early to get organized.

The first step in creating a price chart is to go through your refrigerator and pantry and catalog the must haves the items you use at least once a month. Some staples in my pantry and refrigerator include onions, garlic, bananas, tomatoes, milk, cheese, orange juice, coffee beans, bread, olive oil, boneless, skinless chicken breasts and breakfast cereal.

After I compile a list of food items, I start recording the best prices I’ve found on the items, being sure to determine costs by size and packaging, as well. For instance, I know that I can find 6 oz cans of tomato paste, a staple in my Italian cooking, for $.25 apiece if I wait for a sale. That is about $.07 less than buying the cans in bulk at my local warehouse store. Because I almost always have the paste on hand so there is never an emergency situation, it is a better bargain for me to wait for a sale at my local market and bulk up then. However, nine times out of 10, it is a better deal to stock up on toilet paper at the warehouse store, where I can find a sturdy, good quality roll of 425 sheets for $.41 apiece. Keeping a price chart also allows you to quickly distinguish when a sale is really a sale.

I’ve found the simplest way to create a chart is on the computer and print it out. That way, my price chart ends up being a typed piece of paper that easily folds up and remains in my wallet where I can reference it at any time. In addition, having it on the computer means updates are simple. So the next time, you see a big sale on your favorite ice cream, you can quickly reference your price chart and determine that yes, it is worth hopping in the car and stockpiling a pint or two.

There is a psychological cost to owning too much stuff, as well. The more stuff you have the harder you have to work to keep it. The extreme of this is buying a giant house and expensive boat and then working 75 to 80 hours a week to pay for the slip in the harbor, the property taxes, the maid, the furniture to fill the massive space, and so on. When you are over-extended in this way, you have no time (or energy) to enjoy the house or boat.

On the whole, having less stuff is also conducive to clearer thinking. Have you ever noticed how simply cleaning your desk or office or living room promotes a feeling of calm and sense of clarity? Too much stuff is like static on the TV — you can’t really see the true picture in life. In the past two years, I have both borrowed and loaned maternity clothes. During my first pregnancy, during the summer in California, I only had to buy a handful of maternity clothes because most were loaned to me by a friend. After my second pregnancy, in Minnesota during the winter, I bought many winter and warmer items and have now passed them on to a sister-in-law who is pregnant.

Like the example above, sometimes it isn’t a clear-cut exchange. Maybe we won’t ever need something from that person who borrowed our cordless drill, but possibly they will loan someone else something someday. And sometimes the favor is returned in a different form. For instance, we’ve borrowed a ladder from a neighbor, and every time it snows, my husband takes his garage-sale bought snowblower and plows that neighbor’s sidewalk and driveway. Although I’m sure my husband would have done it anyway, it’s still an example how we each create a community when we reach out to others.

And by taking that step and knocking on a neighbor’s door, we also have a very good chance of striking up a new friendship, which is worth more than anything you can buy.

And according to a 2001 report on the NewsHour Extra by Jim Lehrer, by the end of 2000, Americans owed 7.2 trillion dollars in household debt. American families owed 100 percent of the money they earned from work.

Getting out from under that debt may seem insurmountable, but it is crucial to achieving financial freedom. The way to do this is to first take a month and log all your expenditures from that morning coffee to that monthly mortgage. Organize your expenditures in categories such as eating out, groceries, gas for car, entertainment, and so on.

After doing this, most people are astonished by how much of their income they are just piddling away with nothing to show for it. Then, carefully look at where you can cut. Depending on your motivation, you could shave tens or hundreds of dollars off that monthly amount. Whatever that savings amounts to, you need to allocate it to pay off your credit card with the highest interest rate. Keep making chunks of payments until it is paid off and then move onto your next debt until all you have left are low-interest rate student loans, a car loan and/or your mortgage.

Once you pay off all your other debt, then take that amount you spent on debt reduction each month and stick it in a money market account that will be readily accessible in case of emergency. When you have enough money in that account to pay for, say, six months of your living expenses, then it is time to start thinking about whether you’d like to start paying off your other debts: student and car loans and finally, a mortgage.

Some people are satisfied to stop right there, maybe keeping a mortgage for the tax write off and using the money they previously spent on debt for vacations or other treats. But there are some people who keep right on going until they are completely debt free and then invest their money and live on the returns. This is true financial freedom. It is tough, but it has been done. Those people who have accomplished this ultimate financial freedom, such as Vicki Robin and Joe Dominguez, the authors of Your Money or Your Life, claim to have found a richness to life that no money can buy.

If you start at age 25 and contribute the $14,000 maximum each year, you would have nearly $4 million by age 65, said John Demming, a spokesman for Vanguard in an article posted on www.kplctv.com, a Louisiana television station’s website. If you start saving in your 401K at age 40, you would have just over $1 million, he said in the article. Note: For 2006, the maximum was raised to $15,000.

A 401k retirement plan is basically a savings account financed by contributions out of your paycheck. The monies are contributed before taxes and then invested. The money is not taxed until you withdraw it from the account, ideally at retirement age. Early withdrawals are taxed and can incur a monetary penalty, except in a few special circumstances. If your employer offers a plan that matches your contribution, you can’t afford not to participate. That’s turning down free money.

According to Joshua Kennon’s “Your Guide to Investing for Beginners, there can be a big payoff from companies, such as Starbucks, which sweetens its recruitment pot with matching percentages for 401k contributions, He writes, an employee working at the coffee giant for over ten years earning $100,000 that contributed $4,000 to their 401(k) would receive a $6,000 deposit in the account directly from the company (150% match on $4,000 contribution.) Anything the employee deposited above the 4% threshold would not receive a match. According to kplctv.com, its worth checking out websites such as www.Smartmoney.com and www.morningstar.com that have online software and free calculators to help determine how much you should contribute to make your retirement goals.

So don’t walk, run to your HR department and get signed up. The sooner the better.

2. Create a list of all your monthly expenses. If an expense occurs less frequently, simply prorate it to fit a monthly format. Be sure to include such expenses as; housing, food, transportation, utilities, entertainment, etc. It is wise to track your spending for a full month during this stage of budgetary planning. Save your receipts and each evening write down your expenses for the day. This is the best way to gain an accurate reflection of actual expenses.

3. Determine if your income covers all of your current expenses. If the answer is no, then expenses need to be reduced.

4. Adjust expenses. This can be done in a variety of ways. Depending on the amount of the shortfall, it may be a simple matter of reducing some discretionary spending, such as entertainment, or food.(i.e. the number of times you eat out in a given month) If the deficit is larger then it may be a matter of downsizing your vehicle or your living arrangements. If your income covers all of your expenses then this is still a good opportunity to trim some of the fat off of your spending habits. This can help free up extra money for a variety of reasons ranging from, college educations for the kids, to a nice anniversary trip with your wife.

5. Add new categories if necessary. Three areas that are often overlooked are 1) debt reduction 2) retirement savings and 3) emergency savings. An emergency fund will ensure that there is an adequate amount available to cover an unforeseen even (i.e. the car breaks down) should it arise. This will prevent the use of credit which can quickly break a personal budget.

The decision to file for bankruptcy is a highly personal one, based on your particular financial situation. It should only be considered once you have dug deep to tighten your budget and sought credit counseling.

Filing for personal bankruptcy has long lasting repercussions. It can affect your credit — and your life — for as long as 10 years.

It can hurt your ability get a job, buy or rent a car or home and even to purchase insurance. Employers, landlords and insurance companies are increasingly relying on credit reports to help them make decisions.

A bankruptcy filing can even make it next to impossible to hold onto your bank accounts and credit cards.

Keep in mind, if you have a steady job and just aren’t juggling your debts adequately or are living beyond your means, a judge may not even grant you a bankruptcy filing.

If you have a steady income and still can’t make ends meet despite your best efforts to do so, you may consider filing for Chapter 13, which will allow you to keep some of your belongings, such as a house or car with a 3-5 year repayment plan. This type of filing will remain on your credit report for 7 years.

If you don’t have a job or steady income you may consider filing for Chapter 7, which will allow you to erase most of your debts, but will affect your credit report for 10 years.

However, both forms of personal bankruptcy will not erase debts such as student loans, recent taxes owed, child support or alimony.

With all these warnings, sometimes filing a bankruptcy is inevitable to escape mounting debts.

If you are facing court orders that will grant your creditors the right to garnish your wages or even raid your bank accounts, then maybe filing bankruptcy is an option worth considering.

Just remember it is a last resort that can have long-lasting negative consequences on your life and lifestyle. Before it is embarked on, you should meet with an attorney or financial advisor to have them determine whether your particular financial crisis will be solved by bankruptcy filing.

Yet so often we find ourselves betraying these values (everyone does this at some point), and it is when we choose to betray these values that we find ourselves in financial trouble instead of in financial stability. We either spend money on things that don’t match or even oppose our values, or we spend money on our values but in a misguided fashion.

Why do we do this? The biggest reason that we spend money out of accord with our values is that we don’t sit down and define our goals. Goals are merely the specific embodiment of our values – tangible milestones that are clear indications of lives lived in tune with our values.

You’re probably thinking to yourself, I have values and goals already – this is a waste of my time. Before you log off, I want to ask you one simple question: first, do your goals actually match the values in your life? Let me give you an example. One of my major short term goals is buying a house, something many of you can identify with. This is a goal related to one of my primary values, my family. Thus, I’m buying a house for my family. Understanding this connection lets me clearly define what type of house I’m looking for (it doesn’t need to be shiny and new, but it does need to have space for my son and my future children – a large kitchen, a family room, and four bedrooms are what I seek). Thus, every time I think about the home purchase, I realize that I’m working for my family.

If you can honestly match ever single goal in your life with one of your central values, you’re more well-adjusted than almost everyone in the world. The truth is that we all have central values without any associated goals, goals without any associated values, and goal-value pairings that are really unclear and muddled. People that are financially successful find ways to minimize all of these.

How do they do this? They define all of their goals based directly on their personal values, and they live their lives to meet these goals above everything else. If they go to spend money, they ask themselves whether that money directly leads them to one of their goals. If the answer is no, they don’t spend the money. Thus, when they actually spend money, it doesn’t fill them with guilt. They can immediately see how that money is going to realize their goals, which are fundamentally connected to the values that define their life.

How do we get there? Let’s take an hour, sit down, and define ten goals in our life. If you went through yesterday’s exercise, you will already have a list of the five values that are central to your life. Now, we take these values and use them to define ten concrete goals.

First, forget what you believe your goals are right now. You might end up coming back to these goals during this process or you might not. The intent is to define your goals in direct harmony with your core values.

For each value on your list, ask yourself where you want to be in terms of that value in twenty five years. I mentioned that one of my main values is my family (specifically my children), so in twenty five years, I would like to have two college-educated children starting stable lives on their own, and perhaps a third in college.

Now, turn that dream into a goal. For my children to be able to start out their own lives on their own, I want to minimize their college debts and set a good example for their lives. So, my goal is to be able to pay for at least part of their education.

You might be tempted to start writing a plan for that goal right now, but don’t. We’ll get to that later. Right now, we just want to make a list of long-term goals that match your values.

For those curious, here are some sample goals for twenty five years down the road:
+ I want to be able to pay for a significant part of my child’s college education
+ I want to have a fully paid for house big enough for my grandchildren to visit and feel comfortable
+ I want to be able to travel the world with my wife
+ I want to have three books in print
+ I want to be able to live off the interest of my non-retirement investments

Once you’ve made the long term goals, go through your values again and ask yourself where you want to be in terms of that value in one year. Just like before, figure out where you would like to be in relation to that value in one year and don’t worry about defining a plan for that goal.

Again, here are some sample one year goals:
+ I want to double the value of my son’s 529 college savings plan
+ I want to buy and move into a house
+ I want to select and begin learning a foreign language
+ I want to quadruple the readership of The Simple Dollar
+ I want to reach $10K in my non-retirement mutual fund account

Now that you have these goals, we’re ready to begin defining some plans, but let’s sleep on it first.

For each of the short term goals, I want you to define five specific actions:

I will do this in the next three days.
I will do this in the next week.
I will do this every week.
I will do this in the next month.
I will do this in the next six months.

Some of these will be information gathering and have no cost. Others will actually require some investment, usually the one that happens every week.

For example, yesterday I mentioned that one of my short term goals is doubling the value of my son’s 529 college savings plan in the next year. Here’s what my five specific actions look like:

In the next three days, I will get the balance of my son’s 529 account, along with the data on the annual returns of each of the investment options in the plan. In the next week, I will determine how much I need to invest in the coming year
to double the account balance and also estimate what the return for the coming year might be.

Every week, I will invest 2% of what I calculate is needed to double the balance in the coming year.

In the next month, I will evaluate all of the different funds available for my son’s 529 and choose a fund that I feel is the best match for him.

In six months, I will check in on the account and see how he’s doing for the year, see how the various funds are doing for the year, and reconsider my investment choices.

Generally, the model outlined above works well: gather information in the next three days, plan a baseline amount you’ll need in the next week, save an appropriate amount every week, investigate the details in the next month, and review things in six months. If you do this, you’ll almost always meet your annual goal.

Now, for each of the long term goals, I want you to define five specific actions:

I will do this in the next week.
I will do this in the next month.
I will do this every month.
I will do this in the next year.
I will do this in three years.

Some of these will be information gathering and have no cost. Others will actually require some investment, usually the one that happens every month.

For example, yesterday I mentioned that one of my long term goals is completely owning a wonderful house in twenty five years. Here’s what my five specific actions look like:

In the next week, I will gather information a selection of potential houses that reflect what I plan to buy immediately and what I plan to buy in fifteen years.

In the next month, I will calculate how much I will have to spend per month on mortgage, insurance, and taxes on the lower-end house, and also calculate how much the nice house will cost in fifteen years.

Each month, I will save 25% of a mortgage payment for helping me get ahead on payments when I purchase the first home. This will enable me to ‘trade up’ more effectively when the time comes.

In the next year, I will buy a home that is in the lower house bracket and switch the extra 25% from a savings account to a direct payment on the mortgage.

In three years, I will sit down and re-evaluate what my ‘dream home’ is like and refactor my plan accordingly.

By doing this, I break down something that seems far-off (a beautiful big house to retire in and for my children and grandchildren to enjoy) into smaller pieces that I can do right now. I also find it useful to find an image that captures a long-term goal and place it in a place that I’ll see regularly. This way, the end goal is always in sight; it’s a constant visual reminder of where I need to go.

Now that you’ve defined these plans, you have specific things that you’re saving for and spending your money on that are in line with your values and goals. Whenever you go to spend money, pause for a second and think about your values, goals, and plans, and ask yourself if that money expenditure is really helping you reach your goals or is really reflecting your values.

You should strongly consider making up a schedule that combine all of your plans together. What will you do in the next week? What will you do every week? What will you do in the next month? What will you do every month?

A schedule that keeps you following your plans will help with this.

One week from now, you should have some numbers that will show you what you need to be doing to reach your goals. The amounts might trouble you, but don’t worry. In one week, we’ll take these numbers and use some techniques to carefully evaluate what they really mean – and how you can make them count for more than you think.

Before I did this exercise, I often found that, even though I often realized it wasn’t a good idea to spend, I would still spend money anyway. Why? I didn’t have any sort of concrete plan for what to do with my money, especially not one that was larger than saving for a new gadget or toy. Now, whenever I’m tempted to spend money in a frivolous way, I think about what’s important to me, and it directly connects to a plan for spending my money.

Tomorrow, we’ll start looking at your money.

Now that we have these plans in place, we need to dig into our finances a bit. The first step is to see what income you actually have with which to chase your dreams. This will provide a baseline with which to figure out how we can rebuild our finances.

As before, take out a sheet of paper. Along the top, make a list of each of your employments. For me, I just listed one job (right now, The Simple Dollar is a very involved hobby, not what I would call a “job”). On the right hand side of the paper, write how much you make per year at your job (minus only income taxes – include all benefits, including any employer matching for retirement).

Now, underneath that, make a list of every single extra cost you have specifically because of your job. What does the commute cost? How much does lunch cost if you don’t bring your own lunch from home? What does your work wardrobe cost? What do you spend on going out with coworkers? On small professional gifts for others? On a nicer car or jewelry or other items for work image? What about child care? Each of these are expenses related to your job.

Just make a list of them; don’t worry about amounts yet.

Here’s a sample list, if you’d like something to compare it to: child care, driving to work (gas and extra maintenance), wardrobe, meals, gifts, and office supplies.

Now, for each item on your list, figure out how much it costs you per year.

First, figure out how many days a year you work (this is useful for the automotive calculations), then figure out how long your daily commute is. Multiply the two together and you get an estimate of the mileage you put on the car. I drive about 5,500 miles a year for work, so that amounts to roughly 400 gallons of gasoline, at $2.50 a pop (on average), which comes out to $1,000. I also figure that I’ll have to spend about half that much on other maintenance (oil changes, filter changes, and increased risk of major problems): $500. Then I look at child care: $5,800. I usually buy about $300-$350 a year worth of extra clothes for work, and I eat out probably once a week with coworkers, so tack on another $780 ($15 a meal, estimated). I also buy gifts for our gift exchanges at work and some of my office supplies, adding up to nearly $100 a year. Obviously, your calculations will be far different.

When you’ve determined annual amounts for each entry, subtract them from your salary. This will be sort of painful, particularly if you work in an office at the $12-$15 an hour range. The amount you’re left with is your true take-home salary for your job for a year. We used the post-tax number because you’re paying for this extra stuff after taxes.

I know some people who claim to be making $35,000 a year, but when they take their post-tax number and subtract out their job expenses, the number left makes them feel rather worried. It should. Some people even realize that this number takes them down to near the poverty line, and they get quite sick when looking at this number in comparison to other things.

Over the next few days, we’ll take a deeper look at this number and figure out what it really means in terms of your life values.