That’s what this site is about. It’s about learning the best ways to attract women and making sure you are up on the best advice for your money situation.

You don’t want to be the guy who can’t afford to take a lady out for drinks or who has collection agencies calling you while you are getting romantic with a woman.

Researchers from Oxford and the University of Gothenburg studied personal ads and came up with the conclusion that yes, men want a woman who looks good and women want a man who has money. This just backs up many earlier studies and theories that state the exact same thing.

But don’t worry if you are a working-class man, you still are showing that you can provide, not matter where you fall on the income spectrum. You don’t have to be loaded, but you should be financially responsible if you want to be attractive to women.

It just makes sense that a woman would naturally want to date a man who can responsibly handle his finances. It goes back to how men and women are biologically programmed and what they look for in a mate, even if that is a subconscious desire.

For instance, men are biologically and genetically programmed to seek out a woman who is physically attractive. This is what men respond to on the deepest cellular level.

Women, on the other hand, are genetically programmed to be attracted to men who are providers. That is because in the early ages, women depended on men for physical protection for both them and their offspring.

That is why women look to men for security. Even the most powerful and successful women at some innate level look for men who can provide security – even if they are the money makers in the relationship. That is why being financially sound is so important to attracting women.

Again, let me re-iterate, it’s not the amassing of wealth that matters to women, it is the ability to be fiscally responsible. That could mean any steady income coming in, even if it just is enough to make the bills – it still shows responsibility on the man’s part and the ability to provide.

It’s all on a subconscious level. Some women would deny that this makes a difference at all, but would subconsciously make choices that dispute that. Other women are pretty clear that someone who is not fiscally responsible would not stand a chance with them.

So by visiting this site, you are getting advice on two critical areas that will help you find success with women – dating advice and money tips. Study both areas and you will see your dating life improve tenfold. Remember it doesn’t take a lot of money to be successful with women but it does take some time and effort to become the best man you can be.

* Charitable contributions
* Owning a clean-fuel vehicle
* Disaster relief contributions
* Prescription medicinces
* Stop-smoking programs
* Travel and transportation expenses
* Alimony

The rule of thumb on whether to itemize is simple: can you deduct more in mortgage interest, charitable contributions, state taxes, than the standard deduction? — $10,000 for married couples filing jointly and $5,000 for a single filer. Itemizing does take a little preplanning and organization in saving receipts and other paperwork documenting your expenditures.

If you are scrambling to retrieve those important papers that may be scattered hither and yon, consider investing in a spreadsheet, such as Quicken or Microsoft Money. Even if you aren’t tackling your own taxes this year, you could slash your tax-preparation fee in half. Microsoft.com says Microsoft Money 2006 can eliminate the paper chase, allowing you to sort out important tax information from day-to-day expenses, make educated tax investments and minimize capital gains taxes. Microsoft.com also recommends doing a little research on the front end to find out what can be deductible. The website suggests checking out MSN Money to learn about contributing to funds like IRA’s, ESPs, and OTPs, which may be tax deductible.

Here are a few deductions that www.msnbc.msn.com recommends you remember:

* Charitable contributions. If your donations are $250 or less, you do not need to include receipts. Any amount over that, however needs to be documented. According to the website, generally you can’t contribute more than 50 percent of your adjusted gross income, but under the Katrina Emergency Tax Relief Act of 2005, you can waive that restrictions for donations between Aug. 28 and Dec. 31. In addition, the IRS says you can also use a higher standard mileage rate and exclude mileage reimbursements from income.
* Education expenses that can range from saving for your kid’s college to paying off your own student loans.
* Home-office expenses if you work at home.
* Medical expenses if they exceed more than 7.5 percent of your adjusted gross income
* Miscellaneous deductions. According to the IRS, these can include depreciation on computers or cell phones, job search expenses, hobby expenses, military uniforms, safe deposit box rent, gambling losses, trustee’s administrative fees for IRA.

With a little research and organization, you can end up saving a lot of money by itemizing deductions. So throw away that shoebox you’ve used to store receipts. Its never too early to get organized.

The first step in creating a price chart is to go through your refrigerator and pantry and catalog the must haves the items you use at least once a month. Some staples in my pantry and refrigerator include onions, garlic, bananas, tomatoes, milk, cheese, orange juice, coffee beans, bread, olive oil, boneless, skinless chicken breasts and breakfast cereal.

After I compile a list of food items, I start recording the best prices I’ve found on the items, being sure to determine costs by size and packaging, as well. For instance, I know that I can find 6 oz cans of tomato paste, a staple in my Italian cooking, for $.25 apiece if I wait for a sale. That is about $.07 less than buying the cans in bulk at my local warehouse store. Because I almost always have the paste on hand so there is never an emergency situation, it is a better bargain for me to wait for a sale at my local market and bulk up then. However, nine times out of 10, it is a better deal to stock up on toilet paper at the warehouse store, where I can find a sturdy, good quality roll of 425 sheets for $.41 apiece. Keeping a price chart also allows you to quickly distinguish when a sale is really a sale.

I’ve found the simplest way to create a chart is on the computer and print it out. That way, my price chart ends up being a typed piece of paper that easily folds up and remains in my wallet where I can reference it at any time. In addition, having it on the computer means updates are simple. So the next time, you see a big sale on your favorite ice cream, you can quickly reference your price chart and determine that yes, it is worth hopping in the car and stockpiling a pint or two.

There is a psychological cost to owning too much stuff, as well. The more stuff you have the harder you have to work to keep it. The extreme of this is buying a giant house and expensive boat and then working 75 to 80 hours a week to pay for the slip in the harbor, the property taxes, the maid, the furniture to fill the massive space, and so on. When you are over-extended in this way, you have no time (or energy) to enjoy the house or boat.

On the whole, having less stuff is also conducive to clearer thinking. Have you ever noticed how simply cleaning your desk or office or living room promotes a feeling of calm and sense of clarity? Too much stuff is like static on the TV — you can’t really see the true picture in life. In the past two years, I have both borrowed and loaned maternity clothes. During my first pregnancy, during the summer in California, I only had to buy a handful of maternity clothes because most were loaned to me by a friend. After my second pregnancy, in Minnesota during the winter, I bought many winter and warmer items and have now passed them on to a sister-in-law who is pregnant.

Like the example above, sometimes it isn’t a clear-cut exchange. Maybe we won’t ever need something from that person who borrowed our cordless drill, but possibly they will loan someone else something someday. And sometimes the favor is returned in a different form. For instance, we’ve borrowed a ladder from a neighbor, and every time it snows, my husband takes his garage-sale bought snowblower and plows that neighbor’s sidewalk and driveway. Although I’m sure my husband would have done it anyway, it’s still an example how we each create a community when we reach out to others.

And by taking that step and knocking on a neighbor’s door, we also have a very good chance of striking up a new friendship, which is worth more than anything you can buy.

And according to a 2001 report on the NewsHour Extra by Jim Lehrer, by the end of 2000, Americans owed 7.2 trillion dollars in household debt. American families owed 100 percent of the money they earned from work.

Getting out from under that debt may seem insurmountable, but it is crucial to achieving financial freedom. The way to do this is to first take a month and log all your expenditures from that morning coffee to that monthly mortgage. Organize your expenditures in categories such as eating out, groceries, gas for car, entertainment, and so on.

After doing this, most people are astonished by how much of their income they are just piddling away with nothing to show for it. Then, carefully look at where you can cut. Depending on your motivation, you could shave tens or hundreds of dollars off that monthly amount. Whatever that savings amounts to, you need to allocate it to pay off your credit card with the highest interest rate. Keep making chunks of payments until it is paid off and then move onto your next debt until all you have left are low-interest rate student loans, a car loan and/or your mortgage.

Once you pay off all your other debt, then take that amount you spent on debt reduction each month and stick it in a money market account that will be readily accessible in case of emergency. When you have enough money in that account to pay for, say, six months of your living expenses, then it is time to start thinking about whether you’d like to start paying off your other debts: student and car loans and finally, a mortgage.

Some people are satisfied to stop right there, maybe keeping a mortgage for the tax write off and using the money they previously spent on debt for vacations or other treats. But there are some people who keep right on going until they are completely debt free and then invest their money and live on the returns. This is true financial freedom. It is tough, but it has been done. Those people who have accomplished this ultimate financial freedom, such as Vicki Robin and Joe Dominguez, the authors of Your Money or Your Life, claim to have found a richness to life that no money can buy.

If you start at age 25 and contribute the $14,000 maximum each year, you would have nearly $4 million by age 65, said John Demming, a spokesman for Vanguard in an article posted on www.kplctv.com, a Louisiana television station’s website. If you start saving in your 401K at age 40, you would have just over $1 million, he said in the article. Note: For 2006, the maximum was raised to $15,000.

A 401k retirement plan is basically a savings account financed by contributions out of your paycheck. The monies are contributed before taxes and then invested. The money is not taxed until you withdraw it from the account, ideally at retirement age. Early withdrawals are taxed and can incur a monetary penalty, except in a few special circumstances. If your employer offers a plan that matches your contribution, you can’t afford not to participate. That’s turning down free money.

According to Joshua Kennon’s “Your Guide to Investing for Beginners, there can be a big payoff from companies, such as Starbucks, which sweetens its recruitment pot with matching percentages for 401k contributions, He writes, an employee working at the coffee giant for over ten years earning $100,000 that contributed $4,000 to their 401(k) would receive a $6,000 deposit in the account directly from the company (150% match on $4,000 contribution.) Anything the employee deposited above the 4% threshold would not receive a match. According to kplctv.com, its worth checking out websites such as www.Smartmoney.com and www.morningstar.com that have online software and free calculators to help determine how much you should contribute to make your retirement goals.

So don’t walk, run to your HR department and get signed up. The sooner the better.

2. Create a list of all your monthly expenses. If an expense occurs less frequently, simply prorate it to fit a monthly format. Be sure to include such expenses as; housing, food, transportation, utilities, entertainment, etc. It is wise to track your spending for a full month during this stage of budgetary planning. Save your receipts and each evening write down your expenses for the day. This is the best way to gain an accurate reflection of actual expenses.

3. Determine if your income covers all of your current expenses. If the answer is no, then expenses need to be reduced.

4. Adjust expenses. This can be done in a variety of ways. Depending on the amount of the shortfall, it may be a simple matter of reducing some discretionary spending, such as entertainment, or food.(i.e. the number of times you eat out in a given month) If the deficit is larger then it may be a matter of downsizing your vehicle or your living arrangements. If your income covers all of your expenses then this is still a good opportunity to trim some of the fat off of your spending habits. This can help free up extra money for a variety of reasons ranging from, college educations for the kids, to a nice anniversary trip with your wife.

5. Add new categories if necessary. Three areas that are often overlooked are 1) debt reduction 2) retirement savings and 3) emergency savings. An emergency fund will ensure that there is an adequate amount available to cover an unforeseen even (i.e. the car breaks down) should it arise. This will prevent the use of credit which can quickly break a personal budget.

The decision to file for bankruptcy is a highly personal one, based on your particular financial situation. It should only be considered once you have dug deep to tighten your budget and sought credit counseling.

Filing for personal bankruptcy has long lasting repercussions. It can affect your credit — and your life — for as long as 10 years.

It can hurt your ability get a job, buy or rent a car or home and even to purchase insurance. Employers, landlords and insurance companies are increasingly relying on credit reports to help them make decisions.

A bankruptcy filing can even make it next to impossible to hold onto your bank accounts and credit cards.

Keep in mind, if you have a steady job and just aren’t juggling your debts adequately or are living beyond your means, a judge may not even grant you a bankruptcy filing.

If you have a steady income and still can’t make ends meet despite your best efforts to do so, you may consider filing for Chapter 13, which will allow you to keep some of your belongings, such as a house or car with a 3-5 year repayment plan. This type of filing will remain on your credit report for 7 years.

If you don’t have a job or steady income you may consider filing for Chapter 7, which will allow you to erase most of your debts, but will affect your credit report for 10 years.

However, both forms of personal bankruptcy will not erase debts such as student loans, recent taxes owed, child support or alimony.

With all these warnings, sometimes filing a bankruptcy is inevitable to escape mounting debts.

If you are facing court orders that will grant your creditors the right to garnish your wages or even raid your bank accounts, then maybe filing bankruptcy is an option worth considering.

Just remember it is a last resort that can have long-lasting negative consequences on your life and lifestyle. Before it is embarked on, you should meet with an attorney or financial advisor to have them determine whether your particular financial crisis will be solved by bankruptcy filing.

Today, we’re going to look at our work from a different angle: time. We need to get an accurate picture of how much time you spend in a year chasing the money you make. At first glance, this seems almost automatic, but let’s look at it a bit more closely.

As usual, take out a sheet of paper. Along the top, make a list of each of your employments and, along the far right, write how many hours you actually spend at work (include your lunch break) in a given year. Don’t include vacation time. If you work overtime some of the time, just estimate what an average day looks like, then calculate how many days you work in a year (total days minus holidays and vacation), then multiply the two numbers together.

Now, underneath your time spent at work, list every other activity you do in relation to your work. The list you made yesterday might help, but give the question some thought. List everything that you do that you wouldn’t otherwise do if it wasn’t for your job. For example, if you travel, you can list almost all of your nonworking waking hours. You can list the time it takes to travel to and from work. You can list the time you have to deal with child care. You can list the time you spend shopping for work clothes, or time you spend going out for business dinners, or time you spend doing optional training.

For example:
Child care
Commute
Working outside the office
Business travel
Business dinners / parties

If you haven’t already, for each of these activities, list the number of hours you spend on them in a year. Put these in next to each item, but over on the right hand side of the page under the time you spend at work in a year. I find that for many of these items, it’s easier to figure out how much you invest in these things each day (like the commute or the child care connection), then multiply it out by the number of days you work in a year.

Now, total all of the numbers on the right. That’s how many hours you actually spend working in a year. Divide it by 52 to get your weekly total, or by 365 to get your daily total (realize that this daily total does include weekends; if you want to exclude them, divide it by 260 to get only weekdays, or by 250 to exclude ten holidays – you may also want to subtract your vacation days from that total, too). For me, this number was a real eye-opener, as I began to realize how much of my time really is taken up by my chase for more money.

Spend some time thinking about this exercise and what it means. You spend all of this time working your tail off and yet you still find yourself in financial trouble. I spend an average of 70 hours a week working just to keep my job. What things could I do if I didn’t have this time investment? What sort of things could I do if I did a low-wage job just down the block? I leave it up to you to draw your own conclusions, but it is a question worth thinking about.

Tomorrow, we’re going to see how much your time is worth – and what that really means.

If you’ve been following the plan, you’re probably working on the numbers for your plans right now. We won’t evaluate them yet (after all, you’ve got a few days to go before you have some real numbers), but you should realize that you’re going to have to save some money to meet these goals.

The big secret, though, is the realization that you can in fact work for your dreams instead of working just to get by. Yesterday, we calculated our true hourly wage, so you know how much you’re making for each hour you’re involved with work-related tasks. Let’s transform this hourly wage into something that has more meaning.

Take out a new sheet of paper and list your ten goals on it. Today, we’re going to make a framework that will enable you to go to work with renewed vigor, because you’ll see the connection directly between your time at work and your dreams.

Under these goals, make a list of each of your debts as well. Part of the journey to your dreams is paying off these debts, so we want to put them each on the list, too.

Under that, add one last item: living expenses. Obviously, even as you work towards your dreams, you’ll still need to cover your daily expenses, such as electricity, food, water, and whatever else is fundamentally important to you.

At the very bottom, write TOTAL and then over on the far right, write the total amount of hours you work in a week that you calculated the day before yesterday.

What we’re going to do is see how many hours we can spend at work each week on each of these items. Once we have this first draft written, you can use it as a life baseline until we refine it later on in the month.

So let’s get started! First thing, until you’re sure how your life will be rebalanced, include 60% of the total hours under the item living expenses. For example, let’s say your total hours for a week is 80. You should then include 48 hours next to the living expenses. This may need to be more; we’ll evaluate it more carefully in the next few days.

Now, let’s handle the debts. If you have debts, you should spend 25% of your hours on paying off the debts. For example, if you have 80 hours, you should figure that 20 of them should be used on paying off debts. Note that this is extra debt payments; your basic minimum debt payments are included in the living expenses. When (or if) you have no debts, all of the time going into your debts can go straight to your dreams.

The remaining 15% should be assigned in equal pieces to your dreams.

I had 12 hours left, so I gave 1.2 hours to each of my dreams.

So, what’s the point? There are two points. First, if you multiply your hourly rate by the amount assigned to each element, that’s how much you can spend each week on that element. If you’re thinking that this is something like a budget, you’re right in a way, but rather than a list of month-to-month expenses that demand things of you, this is a dream budget – a device that lets you follow your goals to achieve your dreams.

Second, it lets you find real goals in your work. This is the truly powerful part of this. So often, we wake up in the morning and trudge into work wishing we were doing anything else. If you realize that some portion of your day is spent working specifically for your dream, it becomes easier. For me, the hardest part of a day is getting ready in the morning; I’d much rather sit down with a cup of joe and check my email than take a shower, get dressed, and take my son to daycare. So for me, the first hour of a given day is an hour I’m working towards one of my goals. While I’m showering or out in the truck on the way to daycare, I remind myself over and over that I’m working solely for the purpose of one of my dreams.

I imagine that dream and somehow I feel better about it.

There are two vital lessons that this exercise teaches. First, the various aspects of your life are all connected: your work, your pay, your dreams, and your goals. They’re all tied together in one big picture. Many people often compartmentalize these things and fail to see how they all relate to one another.

Second, it reveals that you can directly connect the work you do every day to your dreams. This is the real power of the exercise, I think. Every single day you go into work, you can tie some of your least favorite tasks directly towards achieving a life goal. It can be the parts that you like the least, or it can be the commute. Just pick a portion of it and, while you’re doing it, remind yourself that you’re doing this action so that you can live in that beautiful house or so that you can travel to Italy with your wife.

Tomorrow, we’ll start breaking this picture down piece by piece, starting with the living expenses. The goal is to create a picture of your life, with the living expenses as merely the frame around a beautiful picture of your dreams.